Take a walk down the street and the last thing that you want to see is someone else wearing the same shirt as you.
Sir! Your shirt is your body armour. It serves to protect, it serves to charm and tell the world everything about you. From the classic white that depicts seriousness to the flamboyant flowery patterns that screams “Party!!!”, The Asian Gentleman advocates you to go to the tailor and make the shirt carry your own style.
But before you rush out there, please allow The Asian Gentleman to share some quick tips on shirt basics
If you would prefer not to have cufflinks, consider a one-button cuff with a small “Chisel” at the heel of your hand as shown below. However, if you opt for a more formal style, go for a two buttons and no chisel. If you want to wear a cufflink, wear the French cuff. The Asian Gentleman recommends silk knots for your cuff. You may also consider other types of cufflinks out there, but please leave those golden or pearl cufflinks only for evening events. But whatever you do, NEVER leave your cuffs unfolded as this creates a sloppy image of your cuffs dangling around your hands.
There are many variations of collars shown below– the regular, the spread, the long point, the button down and the tab. The choice of the collar depends on you but The Asian Gentleman will advocate choosing a collar that will flatter and balance the shape of your face. For example, a spread collar would complement a long narrow face while pointed collars would be more suitable for someone with a round face. Your collar should fit snugly whether it’s open or closed. And when it’s closed, the simple rule of being able to place 2 fingers into your collar comfortably still stands. Trust me, a tight collar doesn’t flatter anyone unless you are dressing up for Halloween.
Another point to note about the collars are the different variations that you can make to it that will allow you to carry your own style. Feel free to place patterns in the inner collar (shown below) to make the shirt uniquely yours, have 2 buttons instead of one or have a different thread colour along the circumference of your collar.
Well, not much to say here except avoid plastic buttons that crack easily. If you could, go for mother-of-pearl or shell buttons. Also, make sure that you have got a gauntlet button (the button in between your elbow and wrist) as it allows you to neatly roll up your sleeves.
4. The Fit
You may be able to pay for a nice Brioni shirt; however, what’s the point when the shirt ain’t gonna fit you properly? It may fit your shoulders, but the length of the sleeve might be too long or too short for your arms. No two gentlemen are alike and that’s why The Asian Gentleman’s take would be to find a trusted tailor to customize your own shirt. And when making that shirt, please make sure that it would fit your:
- Torso – Shirt snug in the chest, but not so tight that it pulls the fabric from the buttons.
- Back – Seams of shirt should lie on the curve of your deltoids.
- Waist – The shirt should hug your waist nicely but not tightly. It should allow you to sit comfortably after a buffet.
- Neck – The 2 finger rule mentioned above.
- Sleeves – The sleeves should be just long enough to fall between the heel of your thumb and your wrist.
- Tail of the shirt – Long enough to lie under your rear end when sitting thus preventing the shirt from riding up and coming untuck.
Well, this is just a quick guide on shirt basics. The Asian Gentleman will return with more details in the future. Stay tuned and stay true to yourself!
The Asian Gentleman